Refreshing changes

"There is a new buzz about some of Lisbon's best-loved squares, as customers cluster around jaunty kiosks serving refreshments. These structures - like others as yet unrestored ones around town - were originally an early-20th-century French import. Over the years they came to serve as cafés, newsagents or even lottery sales points, but many fell into disuse while others became shabbier and shabbier. Last year, as part of the "Quiosque de refresco" project, the council issued licenses to operate three renovated kiosks to a well-known former journalist, Catarina Portas, and a partner. These spruced-up kiosks serve (...) traditional refrescos (refreshments) such as capilé (a lemon and chicory drink), homemade lemonade and groselha (made from redcurrant syrup). Flavoured milk and sandwiches of cheese and quince jelly are among other old-style treats on sale. The kiosks are open daily from 7.30am to midnight - an hour later at weekends."

"Everything here has a traditional flavour, including savoury snacks such as pork crakling, bacalhau (salt cod) with mashed chickpeas and sardine paste with roasted peppers."